See this detailed tutorial on how to make your own beautiful country style burlap wedding table numbers using homemade stencils. It’s really easy and inexpensive - and the end-result is amazing!
For this DIY project I wanted to create some super elegant DIY wedding table numbers, using only the materials I already had at home. I didn’t buy any new tools, templates or similar. If you don’t want to go “100% DIY” stencilling templates and special stencilling sheets are available in craft shops for projects like this one.
The technique I used to make these table numbers can also be used if you want to make your own beautiful wedding bunting flags, "Mr & Mrs banner”, "I-do banner”, "Here comes the bride banner” and much much more. See below how I did it.
The tools and materials I used:
Sheets of normal copying paper (80gsm)
My computer and printer
A retractable blade knife
A pair of scissors
A metal ruler
A protective board (to cut my stencils on)
Black acrylic paint
A household sponge
A small glass lid (covered with saran wrap)
Here is how I did it:
I started by making my own stencils. I typed the numbers I needed in a word document and printed them out on normal copying paper (80gsm.) my printer. I had to make a few test prints before I found the right font and size I liked.
To make my stencils, I placed my prints on a protective underlay (I used an old piece of wood board) and cut out my numbers using a retractable blade knife. When using paper for stencils you will only be able to use these stencils a couple of times. If you need your stencil more than a couple of times you should buy "stencil card" in a craft shop. Stencil card has an opaque, glossy surface and can withstand repeated applications of paint.
Using my blade knife, I carefully cut along the printed lines with smooth long movements. It is easiest to achieve a smooth cut edge if you work towards yourself when cutting. I used a steel ruler to cut against when cutting the straight lines – it’s much easier. Be aware - retractable blade knives, hobby and craft knives are incredibly sharp. Be careful when you use them and make sure you have a protective cutting mat like an old piece of wood board or similar underneath your paper or stencil card before you start cutting.
If you have never cut stencils before it may seem a little bit difficult to begin with. Take your time and slowly work your way around each number. The curvy bits are the hardest to cut but once you have tried it a couple of times it will get much easier. It was a bit tricky for me in the beginning too but now it only takes me a couple of minutes to cut out each number.
TIP: It’s much easier to start with fonts which are not so curly. Calligraphy can be a little hard to cut unless the numbers/letters are really large but with a little bit of practise you can make stencils using any font you like the look of.
Once all my stencils were cut I was ready to prepare my burlap. I cut one piece of burlap measuring approx. 4x6” for each table number. I then placed my burlap on a protective underlay and positioned my stencil on top of the burlap ready to paint. I used only a little bit of black artists acrylic paint for this project. My numbers measured approximately 2x2¾” so I needed very little paint for each number - less than half a teaspoon for each. To apply the paint I used a small piece of a normal household sponge. You can also use a small brush but I really like the effect the sponge gives and I find it easier to get a beautiful result using a sponge.
To apply the paint I carefully dipped my sponge in the paint and dabbed the sponge onto the burlap through the stencil until the holes in the stencil were completely covered. As my stencils were fairly small I chose to simply hold my stencil in place with my fingers. If you are working with large stencils it’s a good idea to use tape to help you hold your stencil in place while you work. Be careful not to put too much paint on your sponge or brush as it is easier control the paint and create neat lines. If your sponge is completely soaked, the paint may run in under your stencil. I used artist acrylic paint for my table numbers. This type of paint is less runny, easy to work with and also waterproof. I wanted to achieve a rustic look country style look so I applied a little more paint in some areas than others.
Once finished simply remove your stencil and leave your print to dry.
TIP: It’s a good idea to cover the dish you use for the paint with household saran wrap, a small plastic bag or similar. When you are finished painting, you simply remove the saran wrap from the dish and throw it in the bin. This way you avoid paint stains in your sink or on your bathroom tiles.
When my prints were dry I sewed each of my burlap pieces onto a white piece of folded cardstock. I did this so my table numbers could stand on their own on the tables. Once the burlap was sewed onto the cardstock the table numbers were finished and ready to go! I used white cardstock but I think black would look really beautiful too!
I hope you liked this tutorial and that it will help you make your own DIY wedding table numbers or other DIY wedding décor.
Enjoy your DIY project!
Name your tables after herbs and display the names on these charming DIY seed packets! This idea is so sweet and the packets will look gorgeous on the tables for weddings with garden themes.
If you are planing a Spring, Summer or Fall wedding and have a love for home-grown produce then perhaps this idea is perfect for you; Using seed packets as table numbers/names. I have designed a collection of 14 herb seed packets you can place in or around your table centerpieces and use as table names (see below).
Designed by DIYwedding.org
This idea came about because I am absolutely crazy about fresh herbs and I LOVE growing them. I love the fragrance, colors and looks of these beautiful plants and establishing a real country style “picture perfect” edible garden full of fragrant fresh herbs would be a dream for me.
Seed packets as Table Names, Escort Cards & Wedding Favors!
You can also use the Herb Seed packets as escort cards by writing the guests name underneath the name of the herb. And if you fill these seed packets with real seeds the escort cards are now turned into charming wedding favors! It’s a really sweet idea and super easy to do!
To present the seed packets at the tables you can just punch a hole at the top of the packet when you have closed it, thread some ribbon or twine through the hole and tie the packet around a vase or similar. You can also do what I did and make a simple card holder from a bit of wire.
To get your hands on my Herb Seed Packets simply download my template here and you can start creating your own sweet country style garden wedding.
To make the sweet seed packets and the wire holders on the photo I used the following materials and tools:
Packaging paper (cut to size to fit my printer)
My computer and printer
A pair of scissors
Steel wire (galvanised)
Steel plyers to cut the wire
A few seeds (any kind of seeds)
Here is how I did it:
I started by printing out the Herb Seed Packet templates on my computer. I went for an “old fashion look” so I chose to print the templates on some old packaging paper which I cut to size so it could run through my printer. You can print the templates on whatever paper suits your wedding theme but keep in mind the text on the template is black (see the photo below).
After printing out the templates I cut out each packet with a pair of scissors but you can also use a papercutter if you have one.
Next I placed each template with the print facing down and folded the side tabs in towards the middle using the black lines as guidance (see photos below).
I then added a thin layer of glue to the two side tabs and folded the front of the packet in over them to glue the packet together. Remember not not to glue the tap at the top as this will close the packet (see photos below).
Once all the seed packets were finished and the glue had dried I wanted to give the packets an appearance of being full so I filled each of them with 2 teaspoons of small seeds before closing the packets. To close the packet fold down the tap at the top and glue it onto the back of the packet. I used fennel seeds (because that’s what I had available) for all the packets but you can use any kind of seed you like to complete the look of the packets you use for the tables (see the photo below).
To make my seed packets sit nicely in the table centerpieces I made a simple, rustic looking wire holder for each of my seed packets. Using steel plyers I cut a 16” long piece of wire to make each of my holders. This made my holders approximately 8” long when finished.
Approximately 8” in on the wire I twisted the wire two times around a piece dowel to create two perfectly round loops placed closely together (see photos below).
Next I removed the double-looped wire from the dowel and started twisting the two pieces of wire around each other (see photo below).
When the two bits of wire were completely twisted the holder was finished and I could now place a seed packet in between the two wire loops. If you are making your packets out of thin paper (like I did) you can place a piece of cardstock cut to size inside each packet to help it stand straight and upright. Now the packets are ready to stick into a flower pot, a vase or something else (see photos below).
To make the seed packets shown above download the
Free Seed Packet Collection here
To make your own seed packets for tabel numbers or escort cards download the
Editable Seed Packet Design here (this design is currently being prepared for download but I am working fast!)
Enjoy your DIY project!
See how Daniel Gonzalez made this brilliant photo wall for his friend for her wedding. Through text and images, Daniel has very generously shared with us how he built the wall should any of our readers want to make their own.
Enjoy this tutorial!
To make the Photo Wall I used the following:
2x4” cut into four pieces each 35" long, two pieces each 71" long, two pieces each 8" long cut to fit
4x4" cut into two pieces 2ft. long
A piece of ¼ inch plywood 6ft. wide and 3ft. 6” tall
A piece of white paneling for the bottom part of the wall
6ft. wide and 3ft. tall
4 hooks and 4 hangers
A piece of fabric approximately 48” x 6ft. 6”
6ft. long piece of molding
2 ½” woodscrews and 1 ¼” woodscrews
¾” machine screws and nuts
2 door hinges
The wall I made was 6ft. wide and 6ft. 6" tall. This height worked best for people to stand comfortably behind the cut-outs (wall windows). It has cost me approximately $100 to make the photo wall and here is how I did it:
1. Make the “stand-alone” frame
The frame was made out of 2x4”s which were cut 1” inch shorter than the dimension on all sides. This was done to make sure the frame would not show up on any pictures taken from in-front. I cut four Horizontal pieces each cut 35” Long and 2 Vertical pieces cut 71” Long.
The 2x4’s were attached to each other by L brackets, using the 1 ¼” wood screws. The Vertical 2x4’s were attached in between the base and top of the frame. I first put together one side then did the other side. Each side was a 35” 2x4 on the base, a 71” 2x4 on top then the top was another 35” 2x4.
The key to the frame was to make it fold so it could be transported. I used old door hinges, to attach both sides of the frame and placed two of them in the middle of both horizontal 2x4’s so it would fold in half.
2. Assemble the legs for the frame
Next was assembling the 2 legs so the frame could stand on its own. For the legs I cut the 4x4 into 2 pieces 2 ft. long. Then attached the 4x4’s to the base with more L brackets. I then took the 8 ft. long 2x4 and clamped it next to a top portion of the frame and to the side of the 4x4, near the back. Next I took a pencil and marked the angles of what to cut in order to attach the 2x4’s for extra support. The height of the 2x4’s on the frame and length of them don’t have to be exact just close. The 2x4’s were then held in place with 2 ½” wood screws. The screws attaching the 2x4 to the 4x4 have to be drilled in on a 45 degree angle.
Now the large free standing frame was finished and standing.
3. Hanging the wall on the frame
The wall was made in two pieces that would hang from the frame.
The top part was a piece of ¼ inch plywood and the bottom part was a piece of white paneling cut 6 ft. wide.
I then attached a piece of molding (normally used for trim around a door) to the top of the white panel. I did this to hide the space between the two parts of the wall. This I attached with construction adhesive.
The top part of the wall was a piece of 1/4 inch plywood, 6 ft. wide and 3 ft. 6” tall.
The two pieces were then attached to the frame, individually, with basic hooks and hanger pieces found in any hardware store.
I attached the hangers on the white paneling first. I lined the paneling up so it overlapped the frame by 1” on both sides and used clamps to hold it in place. Then drilled holes into the paneling about 2” down from the top but in the middle of the frame. I attached the hangers on the inside of the paneling with machine screws and nuts. The hooks were attached in a place were the paneling lined up with the bottom of the frame while hanging.
The same steps were used to attach the ¼ plywood above the paneling just leave about a ¼” between the two pieces so there is space when putting it together and taking it apart.
Photo: Daniel Gonzalez
4. Cutting holes for the decorative picture frames
I organized the frames on the plywood in the positions where I wanted them. With a pencil I then marked the inside and outside borders of each decorative frame.
Next was to drill pilot holes in the middle of both markings and cut with a jigsaw. I then just sanded the holes to prevent any injuries.
5. Attaching the fabric (the “wall paper”)
After choosing the right piece of fabric it just needed to be attached. I used an adhesive spray to attach the fabric to the plywood.
I then secured the fabric around the edges with staples. After the fabric was attached I had to cut holes in the fabric to expose the holes I cut in the plywood earlier so the decorative frames could be attached. I just cut holes in the shape of triangles so I could and pull the excess fabric which covered holes to the back of my photo wall. I then used staples once again to hold the fabric in place.
Photos: Daniel Gonzalez
6. Adding the decorative picture frames
To attach the frames all it took was to add screw from behind that were just long enough to hold the weight of the frames.
Easy tutorial on how to make your own gorgeous "Mr. and Mrs. chair banners" using burlap, a bit of paint and some twine!
It’s so simple to make your own "Mr and Mrs" banners. You can use them for your wedding photo shoot and hang them on your chairs at the reception. It’s just one of those small details which adds to the festive atmosphere.
There are numerous ways to make your own banners. The banners below were hand stencilled in white acrylic paint and sewn at the top to make a narrow seam for the twine. You can make your own "Mr and Mrs" banner using any kind of fabric (in any size) you like and paint them in any color you like. You can also add laces or other decorative details and use whatever string, twine or ribbon fits your wedding theme best. So here is how you do it!
For the banners below I used the following materials and tools:
2 pieces of burlap (6.5" wide x 7.5” long)
Two prints on cardstock (1 print of “Mr.” and 1 print of “Mrs.” for the stencils)
A hobby knife (to cut out my stencils)
White artist acrylic paint
A small brush (you can use a small sponge)
A steel ruler
How to make the stencil:
To make my stencils I simply printed “Mr.” and “Mrs.”, each on their own piece of cardstock on cut them out using a hobby knife. When using cardstock for stencils you will only be able to use these stencils a couple of times. If you need your stencil more than a couple of times you should buy "stencil card" in a craft shop. Stencil card has an opaque, glossy surface and can withstand repeated applications of paint.
Using your hobby knife, carefully cut along the printed lines with smooth long movements. It is easiest to achieve a smooth cut edge if you work towards yourself when cutting. Use a steel ruler to cut against when cutting perfectly straight lines – it makes it so much easier. Hobby (or craft) knives are very sharp so be careful and make sure you have a protective cutting mat, an old piece of wood board or similar underneath your cardstock or stencil card before you start cutting.
Applying the paint:
When applying the paint for my “Mr and Mrs” banners I used a small brush but there are a number of ways of applying paint through a stencil. You can use a brush, a sponge, a bit of fabric or whatever else you fancy.
Holding the stencil in place on your fabric pour a little bit of paint - less than half a teaspoon - onto an old plate, a piece of plastic or similar. I lined my stencil up against the bottom part of my fabric as I wanted to leave some extra space at the top for sewing on some twine at the end.
Dip the tip of your brush (or sponge) in the paint and carefully dab paint onto the cut-out areas of your stencil. Be careful not to have too much paint on your brush when you apply the paint. For an extra rustic look and feel add some more paint in some areas than others.
If you would like to see a more detailed tutorial on how to make your own stencils and how to apply the paint click here to read our article "Burlap Wedding Table Numbers".
To attach the twine at the top I simply folded 1” of burlap to the back of the banner, placed a long piece of twine underneath it and sewed across the top.
For an extra decorative touch I simply tied a strip of muslin (2.5” wide and 15” long) onto the twine on each side of the banners.
And the result; A bit of super sweet "Country Style" wedding décor!
Enjoy your DIY project!
I wanted to make the centerpieces on a budget so I started saving different sized glass bottles; wine, olive oil, sparkling water, mini glass soda bottles. The bottles are perfect because they are different heights, and shapes.
Photo by Morgan Bayard Photography
1. First I chose four main colors (black, white, red and purple).
2. Next I set up my workspace- a folding table with an old sheet, palette for paint (plastic plate covered with aluminum foil), water, paper towels, and midgrade acrylic paint. Not the $1 stuff because it will not go on as smoothly and takes a lot more coats.
3. Then I started painting- Line up bottles on the table like an assembly line. I painted a bunch of the same style at once to save time. Everything starts with a base color- then is set to dry (blending a bottle half and half with two colors looked amazing!) The next layer can be something simple and graphic like- stripes, lines, dots, splatter paint. Then the final layer of paint- details and any necessary touch ups.
Photos by Morgan Bayard Photography
A FEW EXTRA TIPS:
A few tricks that I used when painting my designs - Make sure that your lines are proportionate to your sized bottle (making dainty designs didn’t give me that graphic punch that I was going for), paint a stripe around the bottom or top of the bottle to ground the design. If you are really ambitious you can splatter paint (be careful, I am still finding tiny black dots on walls and furniture) or drip watered down paint from the top of the bottle. Adding words and lettering to personalize the bottles is also fun (ours said “LOVE”)! (make sure that your letters are all the same height and spaced evenly for neatness). To help handle the bottles while wet I used a wooden dowel inserted into the bottle, this allowed rotation and lifting with one finger on the bottom.
Photos by Morgan Bayard Photography
Old glass jars are perfect for DIY weddings! At almost no cost at all you can make so much beautiful wedding décor out of your recycled glass jars. I recycled most of the jars below to make some sweet country style lanterns for a wedding. Once the jars were washed, cleaned and dried they were ready be turned into charming décor.
I have written about making lanterns out of recycled glass jars before but since burlap has become so popular I have decided to make another more rustic version using burlap, lace, string and/or paint. Super sweet for a country or vintage style wedding!
You can make your lantern project as involved or as simple as you like. An example of one super simple idea is to by wrap some burlap, cut to size, around your jars and tie it on with a bit string or lace. Then simply place a small candle or tea light in the glass jar and voila´ there’s your lanterns ready to use!
For the lanterns below I measured and cut my pieces of burlap so it would overlap at the back with about half an inch. This made it easier to glue the seam at the back (with a glue gun). I really like when the edge of the glass is covered at the top so I made sure the pieces of burlap were approximately ½ - 1” wider than the jar was tall so the burlap would stick out a bit at the top. I also frayed the top edge a little bit to add to an even more rustic look. Then I simply tied a bit of lace around my jars for a decorative, romantic touch but if you prefer a neater look you can sew the lace onto the burlap and then glue overlapping seam at the back.
You can also use your DIY wedding lanterns as table numbers by painting numbers on the burlap. There are many different ways you can do this. One way is to buy a set of “Number Stamps” and simply stamp the table numbers onto the burlap. Another way is to buy or make your own stencils and simply paint the numbers onto your burlap pieces. It’s easy - see the article “Burlap Wedding Table Numbers” for a detailed tutorial on how to do this.
Enjoy your DIY project
This butter frosting with vanilla is delicious and perfect for both white cupcakes and chocolate cupcakes.
The frosting is easy to make and work with. It's a butter frosting but you can also use margarine and for a less sweet version you can use 3.5 cups of powdered sugar only instead of 5 cups.
You can adapt the texture of the frosting to your liking by dripping in a little more milk to create a more fluffy effect or use a little less to get a thicker texture.
1/2 cup margarine or butter
1/2 cup shortening
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
5 cups confectioners' sugar
1/4 cup milk
In a large bowl, cream margarine and shortening until light and fluffy. Now add salt, vanilla, confectioners' sugar and milk and mix/beat well.
For a chocolate version simply replace 1 cup of confectioners sugar with 1 cup of cocoa and increase the amount of milk by 1/4. It's a good idea to beat the frosting well to make sure that the frosting is completely smooth.
TIP: If you are using powdered sugar it’s a best to sift the sugar before adding it to the mixture to avoid any lumps. Also if you wish to color your frosting simply add a bit of food coloring of your choice.
This cupcake glaze is so easy and fast to make - perfect for a DIY wedding cupcake project!
All you need to do is to mix the three ingredients and stir until smooth. You can also adjust flavor and coloring to your liking and your wedding theme.
Only your imagination sets the limit - so what's your wedding color? Romantic rose, mellow yellow, gorgeous green, soft blue or something else?
3 cups powdered sugar
4 tablespoons orange juice
4 drops red food coloring
Simply mix and stir! If you are would prefer another taste than orange or another color you simply replace the orange juice with another juice or use another food colouring than red.
Experiment with smaller portions until you find the mix of taste and color your like. Remember to write down what your perfect mix is so it's fast and easy to do come your wedding day!
This classic icing for decorating sets up and dries quickly.
It's perfect to use this icing for cookies or cupcakes which will be stacked on top of each other on a tray.
It's not difficult or expensive to make this icing. You can leave it pure white or color it to your liking and unique wedding theme.
Here is what you need:
2 cups confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons water
4 1/2 teaspoons meringue powder
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar Food coloring (optional)
Combine all the ingredients in a small mixing bowl. Beat on low speed just until combined. Proceed to beat on high until stiff peaks form for approximately 4-5 minutes.
Color with a little bit food coloring if you wish.
When using this icing to decorate, place the icing in a pastry bag. If you need to make border decorations and dots, use #3 round pastry tip. If you need to make some small detailed decorations, use #1 or #2 round pastry tip instead.
This recipe makes about 1 cup of icing.
Tip: If you have any icing left over remember to keep it covered at all times with a damp cloth so it doesn't stiffen. If you need to, simply beat the icing up again on high speed to restore texture.
Delicious cupcakes that will surprise your guests. They are easy to make and are perfect for a summer or country style wedding. Decorate them with sugar or classic cupcake frosting for the ultimate wedding-look!
Makes 12 cupcakes
4½ oz granulated sugar (125 gram)
4½ oz white flour (125 gram)
½ teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla sugar
4½ oz butter (125 gram)
3½ oz finely chop7ped hazel nuts (100 gram). You can leave out the nuts if you prefer.
3½ to 6.8 fl. oz (1 - 2dl)
Mix sugar and egg with an electric beater. Add flour, baking powder, vanilla sugar and butter and mix well until the batter is light & fluffy. Gently add the finely chopped hazelnuts to the dough.
Line a cupcake baking tray with cupcake paper liners and fill each cupcake liner 2/3 full. Use a teaspoon to make a small dent in the middle of the batter in each cupcake. Fill the dent with 1 tablespoon of rhubarb compote (see recipe for rhubarb compote here).
Bake the cupcakes in the oven for 20-25 minutes at 345 degrees Fahrenheit (175 degrees Celsius) or until light golden.